Reticulated python cage setup

These were attractive animals that caught the attention of many snake keepers. Much of their appeal was due to the fact that these snakes were tame and not at all like the retics with which most reptile enthusiasts were familiar. As the popularity of the tiger retics grew, more and more people came to keep and appreciate retics.

With pet reticulated pythons becoming more common, it has become apparent that the retic's reputation as an aggressive snake is not deserved. In my opinion, reticulated pythons are similar to Burmese pythons in disposition. Captive-born and raised snakes of either species are quite tractable. On the other hand, wild-caught specimens of both types can be very aggressive.

I'm sure, in a wild snake's little mind, every time we pick it up it assumes we are a large predator that intends to have it for lunch.

As long as I'm being a cheerleader for retics, let's address another concern many people have about keeping them: their size. As I've mentioned, retics may well be the largest of the snakes. Certainly, they reach large sizes more consistently than anacondas. Many people have reservations about keeping a snake in their homes that may reach 30 feet in length and weigh more than any two family members put together.

Reticulated pythons definitely aren't for everybody and every situation just as not every type of dog is suitable for everyone; there's a reason Grandma doesn't keep a mastiff in her apartment.

Large snakes, and any snakes for that matter, should be kept only by people who can accommodate and care for them properly. A python's size is influenced by both genetic and environmental factors. Snakes from populations where large adult sizes are typically reached have the potential to get large themselves.

Snakes originating from populations where the average adult size is smaller are likely to be smaller as adults.

Older snakes are likely to be larger than younger ones. Females are likely to be larger than males. Snakes that have lived in optimal conditions with plenty of food will be larger than snakes that have lived under less-than-optimal conditions. In the wild, a snake must eat whenever food is available. Physically and behaviorally, the wild snake is the product of natural selection. The physical and behavioral characteristics that a snake exhibits are the traits most suited for its survival in the wild environment.

These snakes must take advantage of food when it's available and cope with the situation when it is not. In a captive situation, food can be available at all times and the snake will eat it.

Reticulated pythons are able to process tremendous amounts of food and the result can be explosive growth. It is not uncommon for a baby retic that hatches at 28 inches long to reach a length of 10 feet before its first birthday. That said, I must stress that just because the snake has this potential doesn't mean it must, or even should, grow this quickly.

It's not always easy for a snake to get groceries in the wild and they are prepared to deal with the flip side of things, as well. During these times there will be little or no growth.

As long as the snakes can get enough food to maintain themselves, they will survive. It is possible to strike a balance between the level of food intake that is necessary to maintain a retic in healthy condition and a level that allows for maximum growth. Because a reticulated python can get very large does not mean it must get very large.

Healthy wild snakes are prepared to adjust to and survive with a wide range of food intake; captive snakes are equally prepared. In the last few years, reticulated pythons have become available from populations where the average adult size is much smaller than the snakes with which hobbyists are most familiar.

Retics from some Indonesian islands may reach only 8 to 10 feet, with females attaining maturity at about 6 feet even less for males.

The retics said to originate from the localities of Jampea and Kayuadi are such animals. I've seen wild, imported female retics from these localities that were gravid, only 6 feet long and weighed only 5 pounds. These smaller snakes are the result of the forces of natural selection in their particular environment. Genetically, they seem to lack the potential to reach large sizes. These smaller retics are becoming very popular.

The imported animals are, for the most part, not aggressive. Several breeding groups of dwarf retics have become established in this country and the demand for them is very high. Before and during the s, most of the reticulated pythons imported into the United States came from Thailand.

These snakes varied a little in the amount of yellow in their patterns, but they all closely resembled each other. In the following years, retics from Indonesia became available. These snakes looked much like the snakes from Thailand.

Recently, reticulated pythons have become available from additional localities and islands in Indonesia. Some of these snakes show subtle differences in size, color and pattern, but, most are remarkably similar to the other retics. Most variation in the appearance of wild snakes is due to genetic mutation that occurs spontaneously and randomly.

Most of these mutations, if they affect the snake at all, are deleterious. The affected animals have a reduced ability to survive and reproduce. These traits are not passed to the next generation. In some instances, however, mutations may provide a slight advantage. In these cases, the genes are passed to the offspring.

Over long periods of time, the beneficial traits accumulate in an organism and the harmful ones are lost from the population. The cryptic patterns and colors wild snakes have evolved over time are those that serve them best in their particular habitats. In the wild, albinism is a death sentence. An albino snake has difficulty hiding from predators, and its unusual color may alert prey to its presence.

These snakes are quickly eliminated from the population. Wild albinos are very rare and it is uncommon for them to find their way into captivity. When they do, I suppose it's because they were unable to hide from the person who caught them!

The "rules" are different in captivity. Snakes with unique color and pattern mutations are often more desirable to hobbyists. These animals may receive better care and have more opportunities to breed. They may also be more likely to pass their traits to their offspring. Ten years ago, most of the retics in this country were very similar to each other. Most originated from the same geographic area and no genetic mutations had become established in captivity. In , a strangely patterned retic was bred by Karl Hermann, then of St.

Paul, Minnesota. Half of the offspring from this snake showed the mother's unusual pattern. Karl named these snakes "tiger" retics, and they exhibited varying degrees of striping and, in some cases, lateral duplication of the pattern. Most of the black line on the top of the head was missing and the white spots on the sides were enlarged and elongated.

These were some of the first retics to be produced regularly in captivity and were surprisingly good natured, not at all like the retics many of us had kept in the past. Their attractive color and patterns and docile disposition made them immediately popular with python enthusiasts.

Reticulated pythons are known for having a nasty temperament in the wild, but captive-bred retics as they're nicknamed can make great pets with the proper care and handling. But because of their spunky personality and sheer size, reticulated pythons are only recommended for those who have experience with snakes, especially those who have owned large pet snakes.

A reticulated python ideally should be acquired young from a reputable breeder or rescue organization, and it's very important to handle the python early and often to build trust between snake and owner. A retic bites when it's scared, so you should make sure the snake is active and alert before handling and not risk startling it awake.

In addition, reticulated pythons are known for their love of eating, so wash your hands before handling to avoid the retic mistaking your fingers for food. You should also show the snake your empty hand before handling it, and it's a good idea to pet the snake prior to picking it up to ensure a calmer reptile. Young retics have a greater tendency to bite, which should reduce as they gain trust in their owner and become acclimated to handling.

When holding a young snake, keep your fingers closed and palms flat to give it less opportunity to bite. As you can imagine, the longest snake in the world will need some room to stretch out. But it's best to keep your reticulated python in a to gallon tank or vivarium when it's young, moving it to a larger enclosure once it reaches around 3 feet long. A fully grown reticulated python needs housing that's at least 3 feet wide, 6 to 8 feet long, and 2 feet high.

But remember that a young python can become intimidated when given too much space. Some owners choose to have enclosures of varying sizes that the snake can grow into. Outfitting the enclosure with rocks, plants, and other decor also will make it seem smaller and more comfortable for the snake.

All housing should be equipped with at least one hiding spot. For a young snake, this can be a small box with an opening. But larger retics might need something a bit more rugged, such as a hollow log. The python will also need a dish of clean water for drinking and potentially soaking. The dish should be solid enough that the python cannot tip or break it. The enclosure should be maintained at about 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit with at least one basking spot that is 88 to 92 degrees Fahrenheit.

Having spots with multiple temperatures in the housing will allow the retic to balance its own temperature. There are a number of acceptable heat sources , including ceramic heaters and basking bulbs, placed outside the cage. These snakes do not require special UV lighting. But their enclosure should have ambient light that mimics a natural day-night pattern.

Reticulated pythons prefer humidity levels between 50 to 70 percent. The water dish in the enclosure will provide some humidity, and you can lightly mist the area if you need to raise the humidity level. Regularly monitor the humidity with a reptile hygrometer.

The bottom of the enclosure should be lined with an appropriate bedding , or substrate. The substrate helps to maintain some humidity in the enclosure, and it can mimic the look and feel of the snake's natural environment. Options include newspaper, paper towels, and flat indoor-outdoor carpet.

Replace soiled substrate as needed, and do a full change of the substrate at least every three months. Pine and cedar mulch should be avoided as substrates because they are toxic to reptiles. In the wild, reticulated pythons are known for being ill-tempered and aggressive. However, with proper care and handling, captive-bred retics can make excellent pets. Because of their size, personality and strength, retics are only recommended for advanced-level snake keepers.

Baby retics can be nervous about being around large predators, such as humans, all the time. This can cause them to hiss and strike. However, daily handling can make them feel confident around their owners. Captive-bred retics start life with greater trust towards humans and settle much faster into an established daily husbandry routine.

Once you remove a young retic from its cage, allow it to crawl through your fingers. Keep your palm flat and your fingers closed to reduce the risk of being bitten. Allowing your retic to acclimatize to your smell, touch and company can help increase positive interaction and trust. Retics survive in different modes. They may be in thinking mode, hunting mode, feeding mode, sleeping mode, breeding mode, or defensive mode.

Waking a sleeping retic may instinctively set it to feeding mode. This is because, in the wild, reticulated pythons lay motionless in game trails and instantly react when prey is nearby.

Make sure your retic is awake before you enter its enclosure. Tap the tank a few times and check for any eye movement or activity that shows the snake is aware of you being there. The next step is to help your retic differentiate between you and a prey animal.

Use a full roll of paper towels as a shield for small to mid-sized pythons. Your snake may stick its nose into the hollow tube.

Give your python a few firm pats with the paper towels from the middle of its body and down. You can use snake hooks for the same purpose. Always be cautious and alert as an overexcited snake can overshoot the hook or paper towels or swing around. Avoid attempting this technique with large, defensive snakes with unpredictable moods. Always have another experienced handler with you in the same room or within earshot to make the removal of the snake easier, in case it mistakes you for food.

The best time to interact with a retic is when it is in thinking mode. A nervous or defensive snake, on the other hand, will show jolting movements while hanging its tongue out. Handlers need to be confident while dealing with retics as your nervousness can quickly put a snake into defensive mode.

Work on your comfort while handling snakes and use gloves in the meantime. Avoid letting your snake get too close to your face. Your face is a vascular area that releases heat, making it an excellent target for a snake bite. Never position your body or face over a jittery or nervous snake as a retic may mistake you for a threat, resulting in a severe bite.

Rough handling can make your snake nervous, giving rise to defensive behavior. When picking up your snake, start with the first third of its body so that it feels supported. Avoid grabbing a retic behind the head, but if you must do it, be gentle to avoid losing trust.

Avoid causing your retic to bounce its head off the cage repeatedly as this can be painful. Therefore, if your snake is nervous, cover the glass and provide a hide to reduce such behavior. Reticulated pythons have teeth designed to secure prey animals. The top region of the jaw has two sets of teeth and the lower has a single row of teeth.