Replacement charger magnetek converter

Will it fit in the convertor section of your magnetek unit and was it a simple wire-in? I have to do something also to keep from cooking my batteries when plugged in to shore power and this looks like the ticket. Thanks, Rich. Rich, If I may add a comment please. If you are concerned about cooking your batteries, I don't believe you need to worry at all. I had the Q Magnetek for 5 years now and it worked fine.

Doesn't matter how quiet the EU is, it still makes noise. The 6 amp charger present in the old series would take up to hours to fully charge a depleted battery! I really think this is the way to go. After much research and several posts on Internet here and elsewhere I have uncovered several options for installing the PD in cojunction with or as a replacement for the Magnetek Here a list of options in no particular order of preference: 1.

Replace the converter section of the Magnetek with the PD at the original location. This involves gutting the original Magnetek converter section and some re-wiring. Replace the Magnetek but locate the PD closer and connected directly to the batteries.

You need to run new, preferably heavy gauge wire, to the batteries and connect the PD to an AC source. You also need to disconnect the AC input into the Magnetek and disconnect the white, blue and red wire from the back of the 12VDC circuit board. Then you need to run a wire connecting the 12VDC posts where the red and blue wires were previously connected. This is needed because the 12VDC board has 6 unfiltered connections and 3 separate connections filtered through the battery for sensitive appliances i.

If you don't connect the "blue" and "red" posts, you will only have DC power on the three circuits previously filtered through the battery. Of course, battery filtering is not required with the PD as it's provides its own electronic filtering. Install the PD on a separate breaker and closer to the batteries, such that you can select the converter you wish to use.

Unless you can move wires around in the AC panel, this entails running an AC wire from a separate breaker to a location close to the PD That's the approach I chose after hearing from Ayeedo2 on his experience.

I have the Magnetek and the PD on separate breakers. I have some redundancy such that if one system fails, I can rely on the other. The disadvantage is that I'm still using the magnetic relay sytem in the Magnetek I suppose that's where they got the name! I tested my system with fully charged batteries and it works very well.

I'm particularly pleased with the PD and Charge Wizard. You can manually select the stage on the Wizard for testing. A green indicator light signals the stage of charging.

In bulk mode, I get This is very close to advertised specs. In fact, the difference may be in the lack of precision of my crude voltmeter. The Magnetek provides a constant I connected the PD to 2 type 27 batteries hooked in parallel, with 6. As for cooking your batteries with the Magnetek, I agree with Ayeedo2 that this is unlikely. My reason for installiting the PD and Charge Wizard is that most of my camping is in the boondocks.

With the Magnetek I simply could not keep my batteries charged up with hours of generator use. Now, with more efficient charging, I believe I can.

I hope this helps. You may also like:. BB code is On. Smilies are On. Trackbacks are Off. Pingbacks are Off. Refbacks are Off. Forum Rules. Transtar by Champion.

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They work very much like a UPS. When shore power goes away the suck battery power and use it to power the loads.

The line that used to feed the electronics on the now feed the inverter We will get to the 2nd cable in a bit. Inverters up to around watt can likely get by with standard starter cable 4ga but bigger ones.. So mount the inverter as close to the batteries as you can without sharing air space. The second wire: Connects to the inverter's AC out and runs to a 2nd breaker box, called a SUB panel, Make sure its a sub these sub panels do not have a "Main" Breaker, the wires connect to the bus bars directly.

You move the outlets you want to have inverter power from the main box to the sub box You may also move the same breakers if you like and use block out plates Gorilla tape retangles work well on the original magnetek box. Recommended minimum battery is amp hours per kilowatt of inverter One pair of GC-2 per thousand watts. Option 2: Is to install a "Stand alone" inverter..

Keep the original inverter or better yet upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics Wizard controlled one. This replaces the "Guts" on the Magnetek Or you can keep the original Magnetek but as I said it needs a serious upgrade.

Option 3 is the easy version of option 1 and is what I recommend. Do not remove the guts electronics from the Magnetek, Just disconnect the wire from the breaker and cap it off.

Then install an "In-line" inverter note this may require a circuit breaker "Upgrade" higher amps on the Magntek panel to feed it.. That way if the inverter ever needs to be sent back to factory you can easily bypass it and restore the original converter function till it's back.

Great responses, thanks for the inputs. Here's an update after hours of research and comparing requirements against capabilities. Comments encouraged I've decided to go with the following system. Not a "package" solution but a custom solution that will hopefully fit my needs. DC wire length minimized from the panels to the batteries. Cost is a concern but I want a system that produces with efficiency and has value.

I'm currently laying out the wiring diagram for accurate connections, then transitioning the diagram to actual installation and placement. You must log in or register to reply here. Latest posts. First time rv buyer. Media New media New comments. Members Registered members Current visitors. Log in Register. What's new. New posts. Log in.

Install the app. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter Mapker Start date Oct 22, The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing! If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

See posts with no answers. Mapker Member. Joined Aug 24, Posts 9. It won't change from to 12 volt. The relay that is supposed to switch when the generator is on, won't convert anymore.

The refrigerator won' t work at It works at 12 volt. But, the display on the REf. The 12 volt lights inside the trailer don't work either.